Saturday, June 30, 2007

Skyline Drive

Took one of our cross country drives yesterday, as usual we found a dirt road at the end of the pavement, took it as far as we could and had to turn around. Then took Ohlson Mountain road, another dirt road to the end, if we had continued we would have ended up in someones yard. On the way back down we went to the Winn Nature Center and took one of their trails. We are sitting on a bench overlooking a quiet stream and what happens the phone rings. We aren't safe anywhere. It was Cyn with some important news.
After that we went up to Anchor Point where we reached the end of the farthest paved road in North America. I think we were west of Hawaii. watched them load and unload boats from Cooks Inlet with these very high wheeled tractors. Pictures are on the 35mm. Came home exhausted again and slept well.
Will leave for Seward tomorrow for a couple days and then on the Valdez.
Tom and Betty

Friday, June 29, 2007

Halibut!!

What a day we had. We left the dock at about 6:30AM with an outgoing tide and about 15mph wind coming in the opposite direction. That doesn't sound like much but the combination makes for some pretty high waves and swells. In fact our charter captain, Capt Joe, said he was almost going to come back to dock. Fortunately we found a couple of spots to fish in more protected areas of the bay instead of going to his favorite spots further out. The boat rocked and rolled and we often had a hard time keeping our balance. Thankfully no one went overboard or got sick but at the end of the day most everyone admitted to feeling a certain amount of queasiness!! When the tide turned about 10am, things got much better and we were able to move to better areas. Our limit was 2 fish per person and we filled it. Nothing huge, the largest one was 29 lbs, but all very good eating fish. We had our halibut fish fry last night, it was yummmmmy.

Today we had a very cool find. We went to another Russian village called Nikolaevsk and stopped at a cafe run by a woman named Nina. She is a very entertaining woman, was an Electrical Engineer in Russian before she came to Alaska about 10 years ago. The proceeds from the sale of her gift items goes to children back in Russia. As part of your visit with her, she will dress you up in traditional clothes and take your picture. We were the only customers at that time she had her full attention. What a hoot!

Barb

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

The Kenai

Where to start. The scenery is absolutely mindboggling. Have to select what to take pictures of and more of them are on the 35mm then on the digital so will have to share when we get home.
We are in a park that is ramped down toward the Kechemak Bay, the Kenai Mountain range is across the water with snow and glaciers above the tree line. Eagles are flying.
Drove up to the East End Road today as far as a Russian cemetary, then chickened out as the road took a deep dive down {dirt road} that would have required 4 wheel drive to come back up. There is an Old Russian village there where Russian is spoken. The children don't learn English until they start school. Old Russian clothing is worn and no pictures without permission.
The gang is going fishing tomorrow for halibut, I was going to take a ferry to a nearby town but the ferry is out on a week long trip to the Aluetians and won't be back until next Tues. So I will tool around town, dog sit and may be spend a little money. Most of the Christmas shopping is done. Am still waiting to hear from Barb E. about the measurements of her whale carving and where she got it.
We are moving to Seward on Sun. for 2 nights and then move on to Valdez.
Tom and Betty
Bill thinks we are a jinx on his car. When we were in Fairbanks, and I was driving of course!, the timing belt broke, which bent one of his pistons. Two weeks later and several thousand later, he got it back and immediately hit the road for Homer to join us on the fishing trip tomorrow. He made it but went thru about a guart of oil every 100 miles. We found a loose oil filter this morning but it may have hurt the engine in the process. He thinks he can make it back to Fairbanks (600 mi) and back to the repair shop. I hope so. We are prepared to go to the rescue if necessary.

Will report on the fishing trip later. (Sorry you aren't here Jeanna!!)
Barb

Monday, June 25, 2007

Monday June 25

I think it's Monday and maybe the 25th but I have to check the newspaper to be sure! We spent 4 days in Anchorage at a city campground called Centennial Park. Very interesting! One of our neighbors was a Native from a small village called Norvik which is above the Arctic Circle. Her family was camped there while they shopped & tried to put their daughter on a plane to go to school at another small village. For some reason the airline couldn't find the reservation. She said this happens quite frequently! Another neighbor was on her way outside (down to the lower 48) because she had been shot in the leg and she wanted to get out of Alaska and start over where no one knew her. It did not sound like it was an accident either. We decided we didn't care to know anymore about that situation. Since Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska with about 1/2 of the state's population, it has many of the big city problems, lots of traffic with narrow streets, lots of homeless? or at least very poor people on the streets begging, drugs and gangs.

Yesterday we drove down to the Kenai (Kee ni) and are presently camped at Sterling which is just east of Soldatna for those of you who are using a map. This is a heavy fishing area on both the Kenai River and the Salmon River so the guys are going to try their luck again. Tuesday we will head for Homer at the bottom of the peninsula. There is a big fire going on just to the northeast of Homer, called the Caribou Hills Fire. So far it's burned over 20,000 acres, started by someone sharpening his shovel. Hopefully that won't hamper us too much. Thursday we have a Halibut charter scheduled!!
Barb

Friday, June 22, 2007

Heritage Center

June 20th - Anchorage

What a beautiful day, bright sun, and 78 deg. Spent most of the day at the Native Heritage Center which was built entirely by the natives. 26 acres, beautiful building with indoor presentations of native sports, songs and dances, storytelling, native crafts on display and for sale. Talked to a number of artists about their lives and art. Out side they have recreated 5 different housing sites depicting the 5 different groups native to Alaska. Lots of information and pleasant people. Had lunch in the cafe - caribou stew 16-18 oz for 4.50 what a deal. Will be staying 2 more nights here and then move down to the Kenai and down to Homer for ocean fishing. Hope to camp on the beach a couple nights. Cloudy today - smoke coming up from a fire on the Kenai. Maybe rain the next 2 days.
Betty and Tom

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Wednesday June 20

We are now in Wasilla which is a large city (for Alaska) just north of Anchorage. We have been meandering down the Parks Hwy since leaving Fairbanks. Spent several days at Denali, then several more at a salmon fishing camp on Willow Creek. It was a small state campground but entirely filled with fishermen, non-gender, there were lots of women and children there too. Everyone is fishing for King Salmon right now, saw a 12 yr old girl pull in her first fish, about a 40 lb King. Was she excited!! It's very different fishing than we are used to, people line up on the bank about 2 ft apart & when someone catches a fish everyone else has to stop casting until the fish is landed. You are only allowed 1 King a day, and right now only on Sat, Sun & Monday, must be to allow the other days for the salmon to get to their spawning grounds uninterupted. Did anyone in our party get a King? NO!! But it was fun watching everyone else land them. I'm waiting for the fishing charters for halibut!!

Wasilla is the official starting point for the Iditerod dog sled race, which, BTW, is the state sport of Alaska. Yesterday we went to Knik where the trail comes right next to the road and walked on part of it. I was surprised to see that there was a fence outlining it, but that must be just in more populated communities. We have seen a lot of mushers and their dogs. Surprisingly, the racing dogs are quite small and the Alaskan Husky is not bred for appearance but for endurance. They can look totally different from each other. Bill's dog, Newt, is an example except Newt doesn't want to pull. Bill tried to get her to pull him on skis when she was younger, wanted nothing to do with it! Smart dog!!

On to Anchorage today. Jim is having problems with his generator & will get that fixed. I probably shouldn't say this as now I'll jinx it, but we have had no problems. No flat tires, no cracked windshields, no bad encounters with animals, four legged or two legged. So sorry Carol, maybe later.
Barb

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Just a cute house in Nome


Earp's hotel, the Brewster


Flying into Nome


Nome

Well where to start. The plane was an 18 seat Cessna, had to stoop over to go down the aisle. Twin prop, they supplied foam ear plugs and you needed them. The flight was smooth, the crew was great, got a chance to talk to them while waiting on the flight back.
Nome is really the end of the world as we know it. There are only 3 dirt roads out to smaller towns. Nome has 5000 residents which include miners, construction people and the usual support residents, i.e. shop keepers, gas stations, post office etc workers. Very friendly.. We were the only tourists in town, but apparently they do get cruise ships in during the summer. Gold is still found in the area and a new gold mine opened a yr and a half ago just out of town in the middle of berry country which of course means lots of bears.
We walked around town, there are 2 cabs and for $5.00 they will take you anywhere in town except the hospital and the high school. Don't know why the exception. There is a minimum security prison with 130 beds of which 112 are filled.
Nome is the 3rd largest city in Alaska, and had a judicial district #2 covering the entire coast. The people are very friendly, willing to talk about where they are from and why they stay there including all winter when the only way out is by plane.
The best thing about the trip was on the way back, Mt. McKinley loamed up out of the clouds to the south and we could see over 2/3s of it for over 30 min.
All in all worth the expense just in talking to people.
One more thing did you know that Wyatt Earp came to know and with a partner built a hotel? It burned down in the fire of 1937, but was rebuilt in a slightly different spot in order to widen the main st. - Front St. Will try to send a picture
Betty

Friday, June 15, 2007

Friday, June 15 Denali

Lots has happened in the last few days. Michael and I didn't get to fly to Eagle, it seems they had some paying customers so we got bumped. Oh well. The rest of the crew flew to Nome on Wednesday for the day (no room for us) but I'll let Betty report on that. So instead of flying around the countryside, we spent two days wall boarding a cathedral ceiling and starting the taping and mudding. Lots of fun! But I'm sure Bill appreciated the extra hands.

Left Fairbanks yesterday and come down to Denali. Today we took a bus tour of the park which is the only way you can get into the interior of the park. One gravel road that goes about 90 miles inside. We went to mile 62 and it took about 8 hours but we had a glorious day. Our driver and guide said our tour was a Grand Slam Plus. We were able to see 4-5 moose, caribou herds, fox, Dahl Sheep, Golden Eagles, Grizzlies and The Mountain. That made it a Grand Slam. The Plus was a wolf! Beautiful!! He loped along right next to the bus. Bad picture but better than nothing.

The guys are getting all excited because we are getting into Salmon country. The locals say the Kings are running really good right now. We will be here for another day and head toward Anchorage on Sunday. Should be some good fishing spots down there.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Rivercruise

Went on a 3+ hr riverboat cruise on the Chena River yesterday. Again a beautiful day, We are going to the UAF animal research farm today and a ways up towards the Artic Cirle, but won't make it all the way. Wednesday, Tom and I with Chris and Jim are flying to Nome, could only get 4 seats. Hope the weather is good so we can see alot and also it is only a 18 person plane so the fewer bumps the better.
Tom and Betty

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Saturday June 9

I guess it's been a few days! We've been staying here in Fairbanks and will be here until next Thursday. The first 3 days it did nothing but rain but I guess after such good weather all along the road, that's to be expected. The Chena River which flows thru the city has risen quite a bit and picked up a lot of driftwood. We've taken several rides out in the country, losing ourselves on the back roads, mostly gravel if you're lucky, otherwise mud. That's where a GPS and 4 wheel drive comes in handy! Saw a red fox but no other critters yet. Bill's place is really coming along. He has some beautiful land, full of birch trees. He is now in the process of wallboarding the interior. Our caribou burgers were great! Very rich, you certainly didn't want more than one.

Tuesday we may be able to join the mail run to Eagle, Ak which is on the border of Alaska and the Yukon. I hope it works out, that would be a fun plane trip. And on Wednesday, Tom & Betty and Chris and Jim are flying to Nome for the day. Unfortunately they got the last seats in the plane so we will find something else to do. Michael is thinking of driving up the Dalton Hwy to the Arctic Circle. It's about 200 miles from here and would be an all day trip, mostly gravel roads. But we would be in the tundra and that would be nice to see.

BTW, sunset is 11:30 and sunrise is at 3:15 today. However during that time, it never gets dark, just dusk. Bill says you get used to it.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Catching up

Spent the night in Tok at the Sourdough campground. What a great place. Ken Albright is the owner, in the evening he played the guitar and sang for the crowd. His own lyrics to Willie Nelson music, then we played the sourdough pancake toss, luckily there were some 10 winners who got a free breakfast and the rest of us didn't get our picture on the wall of shame. We did have breakfast in the morning great pancakes, lots of fruit and drinks.
Left Tok yesterday for Fairbanks, saw moose, lots of snow and ice. Will attach picture of the ice on the Robertson River. Made a bad choice in campgrounds last night, moved to a better place today and will be here at least a week. Will have supper at Bill's tonight, caribou burgers on the grill and a tour of his cabin in the wilderness. Will add pictures of the cabin later.

Saturday, June 2, 2007

Saturday June 2

Change of plans. Per the advice of a number of locals, we are taking the Southern route into Alaska and will try for the Top of the World highway coming home. That's the one that goes thru Dawson City. So now we are in Destruction Bay on the Kluane Lake. The lake is the largest in the Yukon and is almost ice free. The road skirts the very edge of the lake and against mountain clifts on the other side in many places. There is a lot of road contstruction going on but they say it will get worse as the season progresses. Mike & Jim went fishing again this afternoon with much better success! We had fresh Lake Trout for dinner tonight!! I don't have enough power to get the picture on tonight, hopefully tomorrow.

Into Alaska tomorrow!!
Barb

Friday, June 1, 2007

Whitehorse

Well we now know our way around town, saw the longest wooden fish ladder, saw the first salmon fingerlings of the season going down stream, all of 2 inches long. Did a few museums, drove around, did some shopping yesterday, got some neat stuff, some for Christmas. Can't say more than that. Will leave for Dawson City tomorrow and then the Over the Top Highway and finally into Alaska!
Betty